Tuesday Afternoon in Tbilisi

Tuesday Afternoon in Tbilisi 

Okay, it’s been a few days since I posted, but I was experiencing technical difficulties. So I’ll try to catch up a bit.

After lunch we went to the Chesed Center which is like a JCC. It is funded by the Federation through the Jewish Agency. We first visited with elderly Jews who come to Chesed to create community. They were engrossed in an art class, but were happy to see us and talk about their lives. The room was crowded, but we never felt intrusive at all. They were happy to see us and expressed thanks that the Chesed Center is there for them. It was powerful to think that we have this extended family on the other side of the world and loved that they made time to share their lives with us. I sat next to Lena who was painting a plaster sculpture of the Israeli seal. Lena goes every week to her art class and also goes just to hang out. Through an interpreter she explained how she carved it and talked a bit about her other artwork. What a gentle soul she was. 

Upstairs, teens were preparing to perform for our group. They danced traditional Georgian dances.

I haven't been able to upload  my videos to the Facebook page, but will keep trying, because honestly it was tremendous. They also sang -- traditional songs and rock songs. I really, really need my 17-year-old son to figure out why the video won't upload, because the rock band was terrific. They played "I Want to Fall in Love" by Chris Isaak -- I sure hope you know that song, but you don't, find it on YouTube -- and "Ain't No Sunshine" by Bill Withers. The crowd went wild!

We really didn't want to leave these kids, but back on the bus we went. 

It was time to meet some families who are about to make aliyah. The family that I got to know was a young couple with two young girls. He studied Economics in college, but for the past several years the only work he could get was driving a bus. So, they are leaving the world they know for better opportunities for their children. 

We sang and danced, and wished them well on their new journey. It won't be easy, but they are full of hope.

Finally, a wonderful dinner with friends after a long and emotional day.

Day 2: Georgia On My Mind

Tuesday was our first full day in Tbilisi. And when I say full, I mean really full. We had an early breakfast and were ready to go by 7:30 am. First up were some Fed Talks. We then heard from the American Ambassador to Georgia, Richard Norland. He spoke about the geopolitical threats to Georgia as well as the important role that this country plays. Georgia is a strategic ally due in large part to its geography. Russia, Iran, Syria, Iraq. Georgia exists in an uncertain and unstable neighborhood.

It is no surprise that after the collapse of the Soviet Union Georgia quickly became a democracy. The country has a long history of coexistence and tolerance. Now it hopes to be at the main intersection of the New Silk Road.

Ambassador Norland gave us much food for thought, and then we were off to begin our site visits. In the morning we went to the home of a Jewish family at risk. This family is one of about 200 in Georgia who receive material support through Jewish Family Services (JFS) and the Joint Distribution Committee (JDC). We first stopped at the grocery story to buy food for them. This particular family receives about 60 Lari (under $30) each month. Trust me, it's not much to live on. We threw a few extras in and were off to meet the family.

Our group consisted of six Federation participants (professionals and lay leaders from Kansas City, Lehigh Valley and Buffalo as well as myself), a case worker from JFS and a JDC representative.  I don't think any of us were prepared for the poverty that we witnessed. As American Jews we don't expect that Jews in other parts of the world live in such marginalized circumstances. The apartment consisted of two bedrooms with a foyer in front that was used as a kitchen/dining area. We did not see a bathroom and later learned that there is a shared facility somewhere in the building. The family consisted of a disabled father, a mother and a 15-year-old boy. Although their circumstances were pretty bleak, they greeted us with dignity. The boy, Giorgi, was shy at first but opened up after a short while. He proudly showed us some of his artwork that he made in an art class at Chesed, which is funded by the JDC through dollars raised by Federation.

Programs like Chesed and material support from JFS are in place for Jews at risk all over the Former Soviet Union and in other countries where Jews need help. It gave me pause to think that had my great grandparents not had the wherewithal to leave Ukraine many years ago, this family could be mine. As Jews we are often quick to help others in need. After all, Tikkun Olam is a Jewish value. But we don't often think that those in need may be Jewish. It just isn't something we see in our dat to day lives. Today I saw just that. Giorgi's mother and father wanted us to know how much the Federation's support means to them. Their message, told through our translators: tell everyone thank you for helping the people you do not see.

That was our morning. There's plenty more to tell, but the hour grows late (it's after 2 am) and we have an early day tomorrow. I promise to catch up and tell you more when I can. Laila Tov.

Day 1: Long Day's Journey Into Night

Day 1: Long Day’s Journey Into Night

When I decided that I would go on the Federation mission to Tbilisi and Israel I didn’t really know what to expect. I knew that I was going to see programs and people that our Federation dollars support, which would give me a better understanding of how our campaign dollars are deployed abroad; which in turn would lead to better stories of impact; which in turn would lead to more effective fundraising. But beyond that I didn't really have a sense of what the trip would entail. I had never been on a Federation mission before and knew nothing about Tbilisi. But I was up for the adventure. After getting my registration materials, two things were clear to me: first, although there were about 100 staff and lay leaders participating in this mission I knew not a soul. And second, I was going to be very, very tired.

The first truism turned out to be just temporary. I met up with the Pittsburgh contingent as well as Jerry Silverman (CEO of Jewish Federations of North America) who were also on the Istanbul-to-Tbilisi flight and we all proceeded together to the hotel. Pittsburgh was very friendly, and I found that this is the norm among the participants. Many of the people have been on several missions (they are "mission addicts"), and know each other, but the general vibe is one of collegiality. Everyone is there to share their experiences and best practices and to make new contacts and new friends. 

The second observation (i.e., exhaustion)…well, let’s just say that sleep isn’t a priority during a Federation mission. They like to say that the mission is 7 days and one night. I think I’m beginning to understand. It is a jam-packed schedule, which is why it is now 10:45 on Tuesday evening and I am just now sitting down to my computer. 

When we arrived at the hotel on Monday we checked in and then immediately went on a walking tour of the old city of Tbilisi, passing through a lovely park adjacent to the art museum:

The people of Georgia value the arts; there are sculptures of poets, actors and artists in many places. Tbilisi has a mix of architecture. Eighteenth and 19th century buildings stand alongside Soviet Era housing. But there are a number of modern structures as well, such as the Public Service Hall:

We also visited the oldest church in Tbilisi, built in the 6th century:

The Georgian alphabet is quite beautiful, but impossible to figure out just by looking at it:

But here’s a photo that might help you get the gist of it:

The old city is in transition, with a number of buildings having already been renovated:  Here are some before and after pics:

Back to the hotel and dinner at a lovely hilltop restaurant with the Prime Minister.  He proudly told us that Georgia, unlike most of the Former Soviet Union, has no history of anti-semitism. In fact, the Prime Minister himself has Jewish ancestry on his mother's side. Jews have lived here for 26 centuries, dating back to the diaspora after the destruction of the first Temple. That isn't to say that life is easy for Jews here (as we will see tomorrow) but that there is a strong culture that has always been welcome.  

The country is rebuilding after Soviet rule and the economy is improving but still fragile. In many ways  Georgia is much more European than Eurasian. Unlike some of its neighbors which are more comfortable with authority rule, Georgia shares democratic values with the West. The Prime Minister, and later the US Ambassador to Georgia and the Israeli Ambassador, both of whom also spent time with us, had a simple message: Please enjoy what we see and then tell your friends. Tourism is critical to the Georgian economy.

That’s it for day one. More tomorrow.